Diplomacy by the Bottle

Diplomacy was on the top of the agenda throughout November in Malta and Maltese wine played its role in representing the country when being served at several functions at the highest level.

Malta-grown wines are unique in that they are a droplet of our history and heritage; only wines made in Malta by a Maltese winemaker can ever give an insight into the local culture and reflect what the Maltese land and its people can bring forth. Wine is a nation’s ambassador and the many international medals Maltese wines have won can only deliver the unequivocal message to dignitaries who are offered a taste that Maltese winemakers can succeed in competing with the world.

The critically acclaimed wines of Delicata, Malta’s most internationally awarded winery, have been praised over the years by royalty, presidents and prime ministers at state dinners and other occasions.

Recently Delicata’s Grand Vin de Hauteville Viognier, Gran Cavalier Merlot, Medina Grenache Cabernet Rosé and Grand Vin de Hauteville Moscato dessert wine were served throughout the lunch-cum-launch of The Friends of The Duke of Edinburgh’s International Award Programme in support of self-development of youths. During the event hosted at Valletta’s lofty Casino Maltese, in the presence of HRH The Duke of Edinburgh, a recognition certificate for Delicata’s contribution to the Award was presented to Managing Director Mr V. George Delicata by Malta’s Patron of the Award, H.E. President Marie Louise Coleiro Preca.

For any winemaker it must be a privilege to have his wines poured for some of the most spoiled palates in the world. But with that must come the crushing weight of the responsibility to meet the trust that organisers of such high-calibre functions put in the winery.

It’s remarkable to see that, unlike producers of most other wine regions, a Maltese winemaker alone is capable of producing nearly all wine types needed to match every way of a grand gala lunch or dinner. From aperitif over starter and main courses to dessert, with the different styles the Delicata winery has in its portfolio, caterers can satisfy practically any menu pairing and honour discerning guests by serving exclusively Maltese wine.

Now you might be forgiven for suspecting me of pro-Malta bias, having made a strong case for the Maltese archipelago’s wines. But shouldn’t we all be proud of the fact that they’re now of a high enough standard to feature on wine lists alongside prime bottles from famous commonwealth regions and other countries?

In fact, when cleverly crafted by an ambitious winemaker who brings out the very best of the grapes the land provides, Maltese wine can be one of the world’s most exciting propositions. Especially exciting are fine examples made from rare native Girgentina and Ġellewża grapes from old bush vines of indeterminate age – probably 35 to 50 years – grown in small parcels and often still dry-farmed.

A favourite of mine is Medina Ġellewża made by Matthew Delicata who is dead set on refining the once peculiar nature of this red variety. His 2014 garnet-red wine has supple tannins. The nose reminds of boiled candy and scents of violets. It’s light but not really featherweight, with plum and cherry fruit flavours and an intriguing little streak of black treacle in the finish, too.

If you think I am getting carried away, take heed that I poured it a few days ago at a less ceremonial bring-your-own bottle party for extremely keen palates of distinguished commonwealthers getting doused in foreign vintages and French crus – and they were also impressed.

How do I know this wasn’t just a case of diplomatic politeness? All bottles were tasted blind, including mine.

This article by Georges Meekers appeared first in the Times of Malta, 4 December 2015.